Summary
Poggio Le Volpi in Monte Porzio Catone is one of the best-known wine estates in Lazio and one of the names that has given Frascati a new reputation. The estate was founded in 1996 by Felice Mergè, whose family had already been trading wine from the Castelli Romani since 1920. On around 150 hectares of land with volcanic soils in the Alban Hills southeast of Rome, it makes fresh, mineral whites from Malvasia and Trebbiano as well as reds from native and international varieties. Its flagships are the Frascati Superiore Riserva Epos, the pure Nero Buono Baccarossa and the Roma Rosso Edizione Limitata – all three have already won Gambero Rosso's Tre Bicchieri.
History
The Mergè family's roots in the wine business of the Castelli Romani go back to the 1920s: grandfather Manlio Mergè started a small trade in bulk wine and olive oil. His son Armando carried the business on before grandson Felice Mergè, a trained oenologist, took the decisive step in 1996: he bought land in Monte Porzio Catone and founded Poggio Le Volpi as an estate with its own vineyards and a clear focus on quality.
The breakthrough came with the Frascati Epos: the 2009 vintage was awarded Tre Bicchieri in Gambero Rosso's wine guide – according to local reports, the first time a Frascati had received the top rating. In 2010 the family expanded into Apulia, taking over what is today the Masca del Tacco winery. Both houses are now united under the family group I Viticoltori, with Poggio Le Volpi regarded as its heart.
Location & Terroir
Poggio Le Volpi lies in Monte Porzio Catone, one of the towns of the Castelli Romani in the Alban Hills, around 20 kilometres southeast of Rome and directly next to Frascati. The vineyards benefit from south-facing slopes and altitudes of roughly 300 to 400 metres; they are surrounded by the centuries-old chestnut forests of the Castelli Romani Regional Park.
The defining factor is the volcanic origin of the soils: the extinct Latium volcano left behind layers of tuff, lava rock and volcanic sands that drain well and are rich in minerals. There are also red, iron-rich soils, for example in the Colle Pisano area where the Epos comes from. The proximity to the sea and the cool nights at altitude bring freshness – a prerequisite for lively, savoury white wines.
Style & Philosophy
Felice Mergè aims for a classic profile that expresses its origin: the traditional varieties of the Castelli Romani – Malvasia del Lazio, Malvasia di Candia and Trebbiano for the whites, Montepulciano, Cesanese and Nero Buono for the reds – form the backbone of the range. Winemaking is deliberately gentle; depending on the wine, stainless steel, large wooden casks and barriques are used.
With Frascati, the estate is after more depth and ageing potential than the familiar light everyday wine offers: the Epos, for instance, ferments in wooden vats, matures on its lees in wood and steel and is only released after around a year of ageing. At the same time, Poggio Le Volpi is heavily committed to the young Roma DOC, in which Felice Mergè sees great potential for the wines around the capital.
Notable Sites & Wines
The range runs from simple Frascati wines to ambitious single bottlings. The best-known wines include:
- Epos – Frascati Superiore Riserva DOCG from Malvasia and Trebbiano, grown on red volcanic soils at Colle Pisano
- Roma Rosso Edizione Limitata – Roma DOC from Montepulciano, Syrah and Cesanese
- Baccarossa – pure Nero Buono, aged for around twelve months in barrique
- Roma DOC Malvasia Puntinata – a varietal white from Lazio's typical Malvasia
- Donnaluce – a Malvasia-based white wine
- Cannellino di Frascati – the traditionally sweet style of Frascati
Awards
Poggio Le Volpi is one of the most decorated producers in Lazio. Gambero Rosso has awarded Tre Bicchieri to, among others, the Frascati Epos (2009 and 2015 vintages), the Baccarossa 2020 and the Roma Rosso Edizione Limitata (2021 edition of the Vini d'Italia guide). In doing so, the estate has brought international attention not only to Frascati but also to the young Roma DOC and an almost forgotten grape like Nero Buono.
