History and Tradition
Historical Significance
Ausbruch wines have a centuries-long tradition:
- 16th century: First documented references to noble sweet wines from Rust
- 1524: Rust receives its town coat of arms with viticultural references
- 18th and 19th centuries: Ruster Ausbruch is prized at European royal courts
- Connection to Tokaji: The production method resembles that of Hungarian Tokaji Aszú, as Burgenland historically belonged to Hungary
After a decline in the 20th century, Ausbruch experienced a renaissance from the 1990s onwards, driven by committed producers who revived and modernised the tradition.
Legal Protection
Since 1991, "Ausbruch" has been a protected designation of origin:
- Geographic restriction: Only wines from the municipality of Rust may bear the designation "Ausbruch"
- DAC system: Rust is recognised as its own designated wine region (Districtus Austriae Controllatus)
- Strict controls: State inspections and quality checks guarantee authenticity
Production
Prerequisites
The production of Ausbruch requires ideal conditions:
- Location on Lake Neusiedl: The shallow lake generates morning mists that encourage Botrytis cinerea (noble rot)
- Pannonian climate: Warm, sunny afternoons dry the grapes and concentrate the aromas
- Late autumn: A long, dry autumn period extending into November
Traditional Method
The classic production follows a labour-intensive process:
- Harvest: Individual botrytis-affected berries are hand-selected
- Concentration: The berries have lost most of their water through Botrytis
- Maceration: The botrytis berries are macerated in must or young wine (similar to Tokaji Aszú)
- Steeping: The berries steep in the must for several hours to days, extracting sugar, aromas, and acidity
- Pressing: The mash is then pressed
- Fermentation: Slow fermentation over months at cool temperatures
- Ageing: Often in wooden casks — traditionally in large barrels, sometimes also in barrique
Modern Variants
Today there are also more streamlined methods:
- Direct pressing: Botrytis berries are pressed directly without steeping
- Blending: Musts from different harvest timings are combined
- Ageing: Some producers favour extended wood ageing for added complexity
Legal Requirements
In Austria, Ausbruch is clearly defined:
- Minimum must weight: 27° KMW (approx. 138° Oechsle) — between Beerenauslese and TBA
- Berry condition: Botrytis-affected or severely overripe
- Hand-harvesting: Manual selection of individual berries
- Residual sugar: Typically 100–200 g/l
- Origin: Exclusively Rust am Neusiedlersee
Grape Varieties
Ausbruch is traditionally produced from several grape varieties:
Classic Varieties
Welschriesling (Graševina): The most important variety for Ausbruch. Contributes racy acidity, freshness, and elegance. Its acidity structure prevents the wine from tasting cloying despite its high sweetness.
Furmint: Originally from Hungary, it contributes structure and complexity.
Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc): Lends body and creaminess.
Chardonnay: A modern addition for extra body and nutty notes.
Traminer: Provides exotic, spicy aromas.
Blends vs. Single-Variety
While traditional Ausbruch wines are often blends from several varieties, some modern producers also make single-variety Ausbruch, particularly from Welschriesling.
Flavour Profile
Ausbruch wines are distinguished by a unique aromatic profile:
Aromas
Primary aromas:
- Ripe apricot, peach, orange peel
- Honey and beeswax
- Dried fruits (figs, dates)
- Blossom honey, orange blossom
Botrytis character:
- Characteristic noble rot note
- Fungal, earthy nuances (not unpleasant)
- Saffron and exotic spices
Tertiary aromas (with ageing):
- Caramel and butterscotch
- Nuts (hazelnut, almond)
- Orange marmalade
- Candied fruits
Structure
- Sweetness: Intense but never overwhelming (100–200 g/l residual sugar)
- Acidity: High, refreshing acidity that balances the sweetness
- Body: Full, almost oily, concentrated
- Alcohol: Usually 10–12%
- Length: Very long finish, often lasting minutes
- Colour: Golden yellow to amber, deepening with age
Ausbruch vs. Other Sweet Wines
Ausbruch vs. Trockenbeerenauslese
- TBA: Higher must weight (150° Oechsle vs. 138° Oechsle), more intense, syrupy
- Ausbruch: Slightly lighter, fresher, more approachable, often more elegant
Ausbruch vs. Beerenauslese
- Beerenauslese: Lower must weight (125° Oechsle), less concentrated
- Ausbruch: More intense, more complex, longer-lived
Ausbruch vs. Tokaji Aszú
- Similar method: Both use maceration with botrytis-affected berries
- Tokaji: Usually from Furmint, different aromatic profile, often oxidatively aged
- Ausbruch: Often Welschriesling-based, fresher, more fruit-forward
Notable Producers
Some of the finest Ausbruch wines come from:
- Weingut Feiler-Artinger: Pioneer of the Ausbruch renaissance
- Weingut Heidi Schröck: Elegant, complex Ausbruch wines
- Weingut Schandl: Traditional production with a modern touch
- Weingut Triebaumer: Powerful, age-worthy Ausbruch wines
- Weingut Ernst Triebaumer: Innovative interpretations
Storage and Ageing Potential
Ausbruch wines are exceptionally age-worthy:
- Young (1–5 years): Primary fruit and botrytis character dominant, sweetness still pronounced
- Matured (10–20 years): Integration of sweetness and acidity, development of tertiary aromas
- Old (30+ years): Deep complexity, amber colour, silky-smooth texture
Ideal storage conditions:
- Constant temperature (10–12°C)
- High humidity (70%)
- Darkness
- Bottles stored horizontally
Food Pairing
Ausbruch is versatile at the table:
Perfect Pairings
Foie gras or duck liver terrine: A classic combination — the richness of the liver harmonises beautifully with the sweetness and acidity of the Ausbruch.
Blue cheese: Roquefort, Stilton, or Austrian blue-veined cheese — the saltiness and pungency of the cheese are perfectly offset by the wine's sweetness.
Apple strudel with vanilla sauce: The classic regional pairing — apples and Ausbruch seem made for each other.
Marillenknödel: A traditional Austrian dessert of apricot dumplings (Marillen is the Austrian word for apricot) that echoes the apricot aromas in the wine.
Ruster Gugelhupf: A traditional ring cake from the region.
Serving Suggestions
- Temperature: 8–10°C (not too cold)
- Glass: Sweet wine glass or small white wine glass
- Quantity: 5–8 cl per person
- Occasion: After dinner, with dessert or cheese
Price and Availability
Ausbruch wines are not inexpensive, given the demanding production:
- Entry-level prices: From approx. €30–40 / 0.375 l
- Top wines: €60–150 / 0.375 l
- Rare vintages: Can cost several hundred euros
- Bottle sizes: Usually 0.375 l, sometimes also 0.5 l
Due to the limited production volume (Rust only), Ausbruch wines are less internationally known than German TBAs or Hungarian Tokaji, but are highly regarded among connoisseurs.
Ausbruch is a jewel of Austrian wine culture — a sweet wine with a centuries-old tradition that offers the perfect balance between opulent sweetness and refreshing acidity, and grows more complex and fascinating with every year in the bottle.
