Summary
Weingut Krispel in Hof bei Straden is one of the defining addresses in Vulkanland Steiermark. Across around 34 to 35 hectares of its own vineyards it produces predominantly dry white wines, above all Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Sauvignon Blanc. What makes the estate unmistakable is what lies underneath: all its sites share basalt or weathered basalt, and from this volcanic origin the family has developed its own range called 'Basaltwein' – in part even aged in basalt vessels. As a whole operation the family trades under the umbrella brand 'Genussgut Krispel', tying wine inseparably to food, organic woolly pig farming and guest rooms. Stefan Krispel has run the house since 2015, and in 2023 it opened an ambitious new winery building.
History
The foundation was laid by Toni (Anton) Krispel, born in 1963. The first estate bottling in 1989 amounted to around 600 bottles of Weißburgunder – a beginning that already pointed the way. The founding year is usually given as the late 1980s or 1989, though some sources name 1991. The estate itself describes the business as a family operation 'across two generations'.
In 2015, Stefan Krispel took over the estate at the age of 26, when it covered around 20 hectares. Back in 2010 he had been Austria's youngest master of viticulture. Under his direction the area grew considerably, and in 2023 the estate opened a new building representing an investment of around 8.2 million euros: roughly 3,400 square metres of production space, nine presses and a bottle cellar named 'Schatzkammer' (treasure chamber) holding up to 100,000 bottles. The new building is designed to be almost energy self-sufficient.
Today Stefan Krispel is owner, managing director and cellar master, running the house together with Julia Krispel. His father Toni Krispel is responsible for the organic woolly pig herd. Lisa Krispel heads the patisserie 'made by Lisa' and was named Patissière of the Year 2023 by Gault&Millau.
Location & Terroir
The estate lies at Neusetz 29 in 8345 Hof bei Straden, municipality of Straden, in the gentle hill country of Vulkanland Steiermark in south-eastern Austria. What all the sites have in common is their volcanic origin: basalt or weathered basalt shapes the soils, complemented depending on the slope by clay sediments, shell limestone, sand or gravel.
Beyond the estate's own 34 to 35 hectares there is purchased fruit and a growers' association: according to varying figures a total of roughly 80 to 135 hectares is processed. The share of white wine is likely to be around 85 per cent.
The vineyard work is certified: Krispel has held the Nachhaltig Austria (sustainable Austria) certificate since 2020, and from the 2023 vintage both the vineyards and the woolly pig farming are organically certified (inspection body Lacon).
Style & Philosophy
Stylistically Krispel stands for dry, clearly drawn white wines that let their volcanic origin come through. The focus lies on Grauburgunder, Weißburgunder, Sauvignon Blanc, Gelber Muskateller and Morillon (Chardonnay). Alongside these come Welschriesling, Riesling, Traminer, Sämling 88 and Müller-Thurgau; the red wines are made from Blauer Zweigelt and Blauburgunder.
The most consistent commitment to terroir is the estate's own 'Basaltwein' range, partly aged in basalt vessels. The second pillar of the philosophy lies outside the cellar: as 'Genussgut Krispel' the family links wine with an organically certified pleasure estate. At its core is the organic woolly pig breeding (Mangalitza), run 100 per cent organically for more than 20 years and producing Mangalitza bacon, ham, lardo and dry-aged products under the 'Neusetzer' label. Added to this are the restaurant 'Krispels Genusstheater' with a wine list of more than 600 entries, a Buschenschank tavern with its 'KostBar', Lisa Krispel's patisserie, and guest rooms amid the vineyards with a pool.
Notable Sites & Wines
Four Ried sites are officially documented – each with its own soil signature and a clearly assigned lead variety:
- Ried Stradener Rosenberg (village-wine level) – basalt at the top, platy clay sediments with a high limestone share mid-slope, weathered basalt at the foot; south-east to south-west facing. Variety: Gelber Muskateller.
- Ried Hochstrandl (Grosse Lage) – basalt at the top, red clay mid-slope, weathered basalt; steep south-east slope. Variety: Grauburgunder.
- Ried Neusetzberg (Erste Lage) – shell limestone beneath 3 to 5 metres of weathered basalt with sand and clay content; west-facing slope. Varieties: Weißburgunder and Sauvignon Blanc.
- Ried Kaargebirge (Erste Lage) – a high share of limestone, sand and gravel. Variety: Chardonnay.
The range follows the Vulkanland Steiermark DAC at all three levels – regional wine, village wine and single-vineyard wine – while the estate's own classification additionally distinguishes between Erste Lage and Grosse Lage. Krispel is a member of the Vulkanland growers' group 'Eruption' and of Wein Steiermark.
Awards
The estate's top wines sit right at the top with Falstaff: 95 points for the Weißburgunder Ried Neusetzberg 'Alte Reben' 2022, 95 points for the Grauburgunder Ried Neusetzberg and 94 points for the Sauvignon Blanc Ried Neusetzberg. In the Falstaff Heurigen and Buschenschank Guide 2023, Krispel reached the highest level with 4 grapes and ranked second in Styria. At the Vulkanland Steiermark DAC Trophy 2021 it collected three golds.
Internationally there are 3 golds and 6 silvers at the AWC Vienna, gold and silver at the Concours Mondial du Sauvignon (2020–2023) and silver at the Sommeliers Choice Awards 2023. wein.plus lists Krispel as one of the country's best producers and awarded gold for Chardonnay and Grauburgunder. Stefan Krispel was also named 'Wirtshausführer-Winzer 2021', and the Genusstheater holds a Bib Gourmand from the Guide Michelin.