Summary
Weingut Hees in Auen is one of the great discoveries of the Nahe in recent years. The family has been rooted in the village since 1824, but it was Marcus Hees who put winegrowing firmly at the centre: he revived old, almost forgotten steep slopes in the cool Auen valley and grew the estate from barely two to around twelve hectares. The result is Riesling and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) with clear contours, a lean body and a cool core – a distinctive style that earned the estate the title Newcomer of the Year in the Vinum Weinguide 2025.
History
The Hees family's history in Auen goes back to 1824. For generations the business was known above all as a country inn with a hotel; wine was made, but it was not in the spotlight. That changed with Marcus Hees, who runs the business in the ninth generation. Around 15 years ago he began replanting the old steep slopes around Auen step by step – land that had partly been abandoned because of the enormous amount of work involved.
Barely two hectares thus became around twelve hectares of vineyards. While Marcus Hees' parents continue to run the inn, he is responsible for the winegrowing together with his wife. Wine critics soon took notice: as early as 2019 an international critic singled Hees out as a newcomer, and in 2024 came the award as Newcomer of the Year in the Vinum Weinguide Deutschland 2025.
Location & Terroir
Auen is the westernmost wine village in a small side valley of the Nahe – and Marcus Hees is the only winemaker there. The vineyards are among the highest in the Nahe and face south. The valley's west-east orientation brings steady afternoon winds that dry the grapes quickly, reduce disease pressure and lower the risk of autumn frosts.
The slopes are in places up to 60% steep. The soils are dominated by weathered clay slate and sandstone, with some loam in individual plots. The altitude brings a distinctly cool microclimate: the grapes ripen slowly and over a long season, which gives the wines freshness, taut acidity and a fine spiciness.
Style & Philosophy
Marcus Hees describes his style as clear, lean and precise with a cool core. The path there involves a great deal of manual work: at least eleven manual passes through the vineyard each year, deliberately low yields, and a late, fully ripe, selective hand harvest.
In the cellar Hees holds back. The musts ferment spontaneously with wild yeasts, the wines get plenty of time on the lees and are deliberately bottled late. The result is Rieslings with racy acidity, mineral spice and depth, and Pinot Blancs that combine smoothness with delicate citrus and peach notes – both geared more towards finesse than opulence.
Notable Sites & Wines
The range extends from the dry estate Riesling and Pinot Blanc through village wines to the single-vineyard wines. The most important names include:
- Auener Römerstich – historic steep site and the estate's flagship for Riesling
- Auener Kaulenberg – the second great steep site in the valley
- Auener Höhe – used among others for Pinot Blanc
- Weißburgunder "S" – an ambitious top-tier Pinot Blanc
The range also occasionally includes Pinot Noir and other white wines.
Awards
For several years Hees has been collecting top marks in leading wine guides such as Vinum, Falstaff and Gault&Millau. In the Vinum Weinguide Deutschland 2025 the estate was named Newcomer of the Year. The Römerstich Riesling is also noticed internationally and, according to retailers, has received top scores from critics such as James Suckling. Hees is thus regarded as one of the most exciting examples of how forgotten steep slopes in the Nahe can once again produce top wines.
