South Tyrol for Wine Lovers - Wineries, Wine Taverns & Törggelen
A wine holiday in South Tyrol: wineries along the Wine Road, wine taverns, tasting rooms, vineyard walks and everything about Törggelen in autumn.
Why South Tyrol for wine lovers?
South Tyrol is the one Italian wine region where German and Italian sit side by side as everyday languages - tours, labels and wine lists come in both. For visitors that changes a wine trip in a very practical way: the vocabulary on the bottle matches the vocabulary in the cellar, and there is almost always someone who can explain the work in a language you share. If you need English, ask when you book; most estates in this heavily visited region can accommodate it.
Then there is the density. The South Tyrolean Wine Road was established in 1964, making it one of Italy's oldest, and it links 16 municipalities over 150 kilometres from Nals via Bolzano to Salorno. Kaltern to Tramin is ten minutes; Bolzano to Kaltern barely half an hour. You can hike in the morning, visit a winery at midday and sit in a wine tavern in the evening without ever spending more than 30 minutes in the car.
And South Tyrol has something in Törggelen that exists nowhere else: an entire season devoted to young wine, chestnuts and speck. More on that below. For the technical background on grape varieties, altitude and climate, see our Trentino-Alto Adige profile.
Best time to travel for wine experiences
| Period | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Late March | The Bolzano Wine Tasting at Maretsch Castle - running since 1896 and one of the oldest wine events anywhere, with around 40 wineries and over 200 wines |
| May - June | Green vineyards, the start of the hiking season, and the wineries' tour season getting under way |
| July - August | Hiking weather and mountain summer; the Kaltern Wine Festival on Kellereistraße in mid-August |
| September | Our top recommendation: harvest, ideal hiking weather, and the Kaltern Wine Days with the first wine of the year at the start of the month |
| October - mid-November | Törggelen season, chestnuts, autumn colour; the Merano WineFestival in early November |
| December - March | Tasting rooms mostly open, but tours heavily restricted |
Important for planning: many cellar tours run only from April to October and often only on fixed weekdays - Tramin on Tuesdays and Thursdays, Nals Margreid on Wednesdays, Neustift Abbey Monday to Saturday at set times. If there is a particular winery you want to see, build the day around it.
Wineries you can visit
South Tyrol is cooperative country: many of the best wines come from large wineries that pool hundreds of members - and that maintain excellent tasting rooms for visitors. Alongside them sit family estates with a more personal cut. Our selection mixes both.
Kellerei Tramin
The architectural icon of the Wine Road: a green sculpture of steel and glass standing over the landscape like an oversized vine trellis. Inside, a light-filled tasting room looking out over the vineyards and Lake Kaltern. And the location is the point - Tramin is the home of Gewürztraminer. The practical advantage for visitors: from April to October there are tours on Tuesday and Thursday mornings without booking; you simply turn up in the tasting room a few minutes beforehand.
Info: Website · Google Maps
Kellerei Terlan
For lovers of white wine, the most important address in Italy. Founded in 1893, the winery keeps a wine archive of around 100,000 bottles covering every vintage from 1955 onwards - whites that are still alive after decades. The tour goes through the old and new cellars and finishes with five Terlano wines, costs around 30 euros, and must be booked online. It runs from roughly late March to mid-August. If you only want to buy, head for the wine shop.
Info: Website · Google Maps
Alois Lageder (Margreid)
Italy's biodynamic pioneer, now in the sixth family generation. Around 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, and the philosophy reaches well beyond wine: regenerative agriculture, art, culture. The headquarters at Ansitz Casòn Hirschprunn sits right on Margreid's old village square. On site is the certified organic restaurant Paradeis - the most elegant way to combine a tasting with lunch.
Info: Website · Google Maps
Weingut Manincor (Kaltern)
Architecturally the most spectacular estate in the region - and invisibly so: the modern cellar lies three storeys deep beneath the vineyards, while above ground stands a manor house over 400 years old. Biodynamic since 2005, with compost, cover crops and animals in the vineyard. Tastings take place in the wine shop looking out over the vines and Lake Kaltern; cellar tours run on weekdays and need booking well ahead.
Info: Website · Google Maps
Elena Walch (Tramin)
The tasting room occupies the historic buildings of a former Jesuit monastery in the middle of Tramin - one of the few stops you can fold into a stroll around a village on foot. From Easter to the end of October a garden bistro is added, where you taste at the counter and can order cold dishes. Cellar tours run in summer, vineyard tours from May to October, both by appointment.
Info: Website · Google Maps
Klosterkellerei Muri-Gries (Bolzano)
The address for Lagrein, Bolzano's dark, powerful native grape with its blackberry and violet notes. You taste and buy in a small sales room at the entrance to the Benedictine monastery, within centuries-old walls - and the single vineyard Klosteranger lies directly behind the historic monastery wall. Reachable from Bolzano's old town on foot or by bus, making it the ideal stop for a city day without a car. Check opening hours by phone in advance.
Info: Website · Google Maps
Neustift Abbey (Vahrn, near Bressanone)
The excursion into the Eisack valley - and one of the oldest wineries in the world: wine has been made here since 1142. The Augustinian abbey offers monastery tours taking in the museum and library, plus a vineyard tour with tasting lasting around 90 minutes, both at set times and by booking. If you arrive on spec you can tour the abbey with an audio guide. In the glass are the fresh whites of the Eisack valley: Sylvaner, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling. Combines well with a day in Bressanone.
Info: Website · Google Maps
Kellerei Bozen and Kellerei St. Michael-Eppan
Two cooperatives, two good reasons. Kellerei Bozen occupies a modern new building right in the city - the tour through production with a tasting takes around two hours, runs in German and Italian, and needs booking; the tasting room is open Monday to Saturday. Kellerei St. Michael-Eppan, founded in 1907 and today counting 320 members and almost 400 hectares, takes you through the barrique and cask cellars and pours six wines. If you are staying near Merano, Kellerei Nals Margreid at the northern end of the Wine Road is the better choice: a cellar tour with five wines, Wednesday afternoons from April to October.
Info: Kellerei Bozen · Kellerei St. Michael-Eppan · Kellerei Nals Margreid
Practical tip: the official South Tyrolean Wine Road site keeps an overview of all weekly tours offered by member wineries. It is the fastest way to find out what is actually running on the day you are there - see the overview.
Suggested routes
Route 1 - the classic Wine Road (by car): Kellerei Tramin in the morning (Tuesdays or Thursdays without booking), lunch at Paradeis at Alois Lageder in Margreid, then Manincor in Kaltern in the afternoon with the lake in view. All three stops are under 20 minutes apart.
Route 2 - Bolzano without a car: Klosterkellerei Muri-Gries in Bolzano-Gries in the morning for Lagrein, lunch at Wirtshaus Vögele in the old town, then Kellerei Bozen in Moritzing or a tasting room in the centre in the afternoon. All on foot or by city bus - the most relaxed version of all.
Route 3 - the Eisack valley and Bressanone: Neustift Abbey in the morning with the monastery and vineyard tours, lunch in Bressanone, then a stretch of the Keschtnweg chestnut trail in the afternoon. In October and November, add Törggelen at a farm tavern in the evening.
Important - driving and wine: the limit is 0.5, and 0.0 for anyone with less than three years of driving experience and for professional drivers. South Tyrol makes this easier than most wine regions: the towns along the Wine Road are well connected by bus and rail, and most accommodation issues a guest card for local transport. For a tasting day that is by far the most comfortable solution.
Restaurants for wine lovers
Fine dining
Zur Rose (San Michele/Eppan) - our first recommendation when the wine list is the criterion: it ranks among the most remarkable in South Tyrol, and the by-the-glass selection in particular is considered one of the region's best, so you can drink your way across the region without committing to a full bottle. One Michelin star, first awarded in 1995 and held ever since, in the middle of the pedestrian zone. Info: Michelin Guide · Google Maps
Prezioso at Castel Fragsburg (Merano) - five kilometres of forest road above Merano, and then one of the most spectacular terraces in Italy, high above the valley. One Michelin star, a single tasting menu, and largely mountain produce from the hotel's own kitchen garden. Season from April to November. Info: Michelin Guide · Google Maps
Osteria Acquarol (San Michele/Eppan) - the second starred restaurant in the same village as Zur Rose, which is handy if you are staying on the Wine Road and planning two special evenings. Info: Michelin Guide · Google Maps
Relaxed
Wirtshaus Vögele (Bolzano) - a historic inn in the heart of the old town, with arcades, wood-panelled parlours and a large wine list focused on South Tyrol. Seasonal specialities, hot food at lunch and dinner - the best place to try Vernatsch and Lagrein with a platter of cold cuts. Closed Saturday evening and Sunday. Info: Website · Google Maps
Paradeis at Alois Lageder (Margreid) - certified organic, regional, seasonal, right at the biodynamic estate. The most obvious way to combine a tasting with lunch on the Wine Road. Info: Google Maps
Farm taverns (Buschenschänke) - South Tyrol's real answer to the question of where to eat well: farmhouse taverns serving speck, smoked sausage, dumplings, Schüttelbrot flatbread and the house wine. In autumn they are the setting for Törggelen (see below); the rest of the year they make an excellent lunch after a hike.
Wine bars and tasting rooms
- Meraner Weinhaus (Merano) - the address for wine in Merano since 1977: over 3,000 labels, and 40 wines available to taste from self-service dispensers. That makes it the best place in the region to compare a lot of South Tyrolean wines side by side without an appointment - and, in small pours, manageable for whoever is driving. Website · Google Maps
- City.Vinothek of Kellerei Meran (Merano) - right on the arcades in a restored historic building converted by architect Werner Tscholl. Shop and tasting area, with a focus that also takes in South Tyrolean sparkling wine and the winery's own spirits; masterclasses are offered. Website · Google Maps
- Vinothek 1900 (Kaltern) - the wines of Kellerei Kaltern in the historic village centre - more charming than the tasting room at the production site and easy to fold into a wander round the village. Website · Google Maps
- weinhaus PUNKT (Kaltern) - a young team in the centre of Kaltern, hot regional cooking from local ingredients, live music on a regular basis. The evening tip if you are staying on the Wine Road. Google Maps
- Vinum (Bolzano) - for decades one of the leading addresses for fine wine, spirits and delicatessen. Website · Google Maps
Törggelen - South Tyrol's fifth season
If you come in autumn, this is the reason. Törggelen runs from roughly the beginning of October to mid-November, and locals simply call these two months their fifth season. The name comes from the Torggl, the room that housed the wine press: after the harvest, farmers and winemakers would open their doors so friends and merchants could taste the new wine.
What belongs to it is fixed almost like a ritual: Sußer, freshly fermenting grape must, with roasted chestnuts (Keschtn), speck, dumplings, barley soup, sauerkraut and doughnuts to finish. It happens in farm taverns, and it is at its loveliest in the Eisack valley along the Keschtnweg.
One quality marker worth knowing: under the name Törggelen Originale, a group of farm taverns has committed to the traditional format using their own produce. Look for a branch with a red ribbon on the front door. If you want the real thing rather than a tourist menu, that is the sign to watch for.
Wine experiences and festivals
- Bolzano Wine Tasting (late March, Maretsch Castle, Bolzano): running since 1896 - one of the oldest wine events anywhere. Around 40 wineries and over 200 wines in a Renaissance castle in the middle of the city, with dishes from South Tyrol's leading chefs. Entry includes tasting vouchers; booking required.
- Kaltern Wine Days (early September, Kaltern market square): producers from Kaltern pour on the market square in the evenings, including the first wine of the year. Two evenings, entry with a glass.
- Kaltern Wine Festival (mid-August, Kellereistraße): four evenings of music, Strauben fritters and local wines - free entry, organised by the town band. The village-fête counterpart to the Wine Days.
- Merano WineFestival (early November, Kurhaus Merano): the grand finale of the wine year, with over 900 producers from Italy and around the world, themed days on organic and biodynamic wine and a closing Champagne day. The art nouveau Kurhaus is one of the most beautiful settings in Europe.
- South Tyrolean Wine Museum (Kaltern): open from April to early November, entry around 6 euros. Compact, well done, with guided tours - the right address for a rainy day.
- The Kaltern Wine Trail: a figure-of-eight walk starting from Rottenburgplatz in Kaltern, down to the lake and through the vineyards. The two loops cross in the village centre, so you can also walk just one; there are several places to stop along the way. No significant difficulty.
Practical tips
The four grapes to know: Vernatsch (Schiava in Italian) is the historic red workhorse - light, pale, with almond and cherry, and a revelation lightly chilled alongside a platter of cold cuts; the classics are called Kalterersee and St. Magdalener. Lagrein is its dark counterpart from Bolzano, powerful with blackberry and violet. Gewürztraminer from the village of Tramin is South Tyrol's most aromatic wine, with rose and lychee. And Pinot Blanc is the quiet giant: at Kellerei Terlan, vintages from the 1950s show that these wines survive for decades.
Taking wine home: most visitors arrive by car - the best possible reason to buy cases. Within the EU wine for personal use travels freely; what matters is that the quantity is plausibly private. The cooperative wineries sell at the door at attractive prices, and nearly all of them ship as well - the more sensible option if you arrive by train. And as everywhere: don't leave the cases standing in a hot car in summer.
What to buy: a Pinot Blanc or Terlaner from Kellerei Terlan, if you want to know how far a white wine can age. A Lagrein Riserva for the winter. And at least one Vernatsch - it costs little, is rarely exported, and is the most honest ambassador this region has.
And while you're there: South Tyrolean wine lists carry dozens of vineyard and winery names that look alike. The Grape Guru app scanner places a label or a list in seconds - handy when three different Vernatsch sit side by side in a farm tavern and you want to know which one is the interesting bottle.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit South Tyrolean wineries without booking?
The tasting rooms of the big cooperative wineries are generally open during normal shop hours, so you can taste and buy without an appointment. Cellar tours almost always need booking, and many run only on fixed weekdays. One useful exception is Kellerei Tramin, which runs tours without booking on Tuesday and Thursday mornings from April to October.
What is Törggelen?
South Tyrol's autumn tradition, running from roughly early October to mid-November and known to locals as the fifth season. The name comes from the Torggl, the room housing the wine press. Farmers used to open their doors so friends could taste the new wine. Today you go to a farm tavern for it: new wine, roasted chestnuts, speck, dumplings, barley soup and doughnuts. The Eisack valley is especially lovely for it.
What does a cellar tour cost in South Tyrol?
Around 25 to 35 euros per person for a guided cellar tour with five or six wines. Kellerei Terlan charges about 30 euros for a tour plus five wines. Tastings in the shops without a tour are usually far cheaper, or the fee is credited against a purchase.
When is the best time to travel for wine in South Tyrol?
September is the densest window: harvest, ideal hiking weather and the Kaltern Wine Days at the start of the month. From October to mid-November comes the Törggelen season with chestnuts and autumn colour, and the Merano WineFestival in early November. In May and June the vineyards are green and the tour season begins; the Bolzano Wine Tasting takes place in late March.
Do you need a car for a wine trip to South Tyrol?
Not necessarily, and that is one of South Tyrol's great advantages. The towns along the Wine Road are well served by buses and trains (Bolzano-Merano, Bolzano-Bressanone, Ora station), and most places to stay issue a guest card for local transport. It is also the more relaxed option, because Italy's limit is 0.5 - and 0.0 for anyone with less than three years of driving experience.
Your sommelier for your vacation
Unfamiliar wine list, unknown labels? Simply scan the list or bottle at a restaurant or wine shop – the Grape Guru app instantly tells you which wine is worth it. Free for iOS and Android.
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