Viognier

Introduction

Viognier is considered one of the most aromatic white grape varieties in the world, enchanting with its captivating fragrance of peach, apricot and exotic blossoms. Originally from the French Rhône Valley, this noble variety came close to extinction in the 1960s – today it is experiencing a global renaissance, delighting wine lovers with its lush, full-bodied character. Viognier wines are the perfect counterpoint to lean, acidity-driven whites and offer an opulent flavour experience that is simultaneously elegant and powerful.

At a Glance

• Origin: Northern Rhône Valley, France (Condrieu, Château-Grillet)
• Character: Full-bodied, low acidity, high alcohol content, intensely aromatic
• Typical aromas: White peach, apricot, honeysuckle, orange blossom, honey
• Ageing: Mostly dry, often with barrique ageing for additional creaminess
• Main growing regions: France (Rhône), California, Australia, South Africa
• Distinctive feature: Occasionally added to red Syrah wines to enhance their aromatics

Flavour Profile & Character

Viognier is a true aromatic wonder and differs markedly from other white varieties through its pronounced richness and low acidity. In the glass a typical Viognier presents an intense nose of ripe stone fruits – above all white peach and juicy apricot dominate the bouquet. These are accompanied by captivating floral notes of honeysuckle, orange blossom and sometimes violet, lending the wine an almost perfumed quality.

On the palate Viognier shows itself full-bodied and oily-creamy in texture, with a medium to high alcohol content of 13 to 14.5 per cent. The acidity is comparatively low, which gives the wine its smooth, almost lush character. Despite the richness, good Viognier wines never seem heavy or cloying, retaining instead an elegant balance.

Different facets emerge depending on the growing region and ageing method: in cooler regions Viognier retains more freshness and minerality, while warmer climates produce even more opulent wines with riper fruit aromas. Ageing in barrique adds additional notes of vanilla, pastry and toasted almonds without obscuring the primary fruit aromas.

With age, Viognier develops honey-like notes, candied fruits and an increasingly golden colour. Most Viognier wines should, however, be drunk young and fresh to savour their aromatic intensity fully – only the finest examples from top sites like Condrieu can mature for five to ten years.

Origin & History

The cradle of Viognier lies in the Northern Rhône Valley of France, more precisely in the prestigious appellations of Condrieu and Château-Grillet. The precise origin of the variety is disputed – some experts suspect Dalmatian roots and an introduction by the Romans, while DNA analyses suggest a relationship with other Alpine varieties.

In the 19th century Viognier was widely distributed throughout the Rhône Valley, but phylloxera, fungal diseases and rural depopulation led to a dramatic decline. In the 1960s only around 14 hectares of Viognier existed worldwide – the variety was on the brink of extinction. A few committed winemakers in Condrieu preserved the tradition and laid the groundwork for the revival.

Since the 1980s Viognier has been experiencing a remarkable renaissance. Californian winemakers recognised the variety's potential and planted it on a large scale, followed by Australia, where the variety delivers excellent results particularly in the Barossa Valley and Eden Valley. Today Viognier is cultivated in almost all major wine-producing countries, from South Africa to Chile and New Zealand.

Cultivation & Terroir

Viognier is a demanding variety that asks a great deal of its growers. It prefers warm to hot climates with sufficient sunshine to ripen fully – underripe Viognier develops grassy, inharmonious notes. At the same time it must not become too hot, as the variety loses its aromatics in extreme heat and produces flat, alcohol-heavy wines.

The finest Viognier wines emerge from granite-rich, well-drained soils with a southerly or south-easterly aspect. In the Northern Rhône Valley these are the steep terraces of weathered granite, which provide excellent drainage and optimal sun exposure. The variety is very sensitive to overcropping – excessive yields drastically dilute the aromatics.

Important Viognier growing regions:

• France: Condrieu and Château-Grillet in the Northern Rhône Valley are its home and produce the world's most expensive and prestigious Viognier wines. The variety is also gaining importance in the Southern Rhône and in Languedoc.
• California: Particularly in warmer regions such as Paso Robles, Santa Barbara and parts of the Napa Valley, powerful, fruit-forward Viognier wines are produced.
• Australia: The Barossa Valley, Eden Valley and Yarra Valley produce excellent Viognier wines with a distinctive character – often somewhat more opulent than their French counterparts.
• South Africa: Paarl, Stellenbosch and Swartland are increasingly producing interesting Viognier wines that combine richness with freshness.

Wine Styles & Variants

Viognier is produced predominantly as a single-variety, dry white wine. Winemaking is decisive for the final style: many producers rely on stainless steel tanks to preserve the pure fruit aromas and floral freshness. These wines are vibrant, direct and show the variety in its purest form.

Ageing in barrique – often in used barrels – gives Viognier additional complexity and creaminess. Through contact with oak and malolactic fermentation, the wine develops notes of vanilla, brioche and butter that blend harmoniously with the stone fruits. This style is especially popular in Condrieu and with Californian premium producers.

A distinctive feature is the co-fermentation of Viognier with Syrah in the Northern Rhône Valley: in Côte-Rôtie up to 20 per cent Viognier may be added to the red Syrah – a practice that lends the red wine additional aromatics, floral notes and a silkier mouthfeel. This combination is also frequently practised in Australia.

In warmer growing regions, late harvests are occasionally carried out, producing Viognier wines with slight residual sweetness. These are, however, rare and not the classic style. Nobly sweet or fortified Viognier wines are virtually non-existent.

As a blending partner, Viognier is sometimes blended with Marsanne, Roussanne or Grenache Blanc to give Southern Rhône white wines more aromatic intensity.

Typical Aromas

Primary Aromas (from the grape)

White peach and apricot: The most characteristic aromas of Viognier are ripe stone fruits. The fragrance recalls juicy, fully ripe white peaches and sweet apricots, sometimes with a hint of nectarine. In cooler climates these aromas can be somewhat more restrained and fresher, while warmer regions produce almost tropical intensity.

Honeysuckle and orange blossom: The floral notes are the second hallmark of the variety. Honeysuckle dominates with its sweet, honey-like florality. Orange blossom, jasmine and sometimes violet are also added, lending the wine its perfumed, almost exotic character.

Honey and beeswax: Even young Viognier wines often show a fine honey note that harmonises with the floral aromas. This is a natural property of the variety and not a sign of overripeness.

Pear and mango: As secondary aromas, ripe pear, quince and in very warm vintages also tropical hints of mango or lychee can appear, giving the wine additional depth.

Secondary Aromas (through winemaking)

Vanilla and brioche: When aged in barrique, fine vanilla notes emerge that blend with buttery, yeasty aromas of brioche and fresh pastry. Malolactic fermentation further enhances this creamy character.

Butter and cream: Through contact with fine lees (sur lie), some Viognier wines develop an almost butter-like creaminess on the palate, accompanied by creamy textural notes.

Tertiary Aromas (through ageing)

Candied fruits and dried fruits: With increasing age, Viognier develops notes of candied peaches, dried apricots and dried fruit. The fresh floral aromas give way to a riper, honey-like complexity.

Nuts and spices: Very aged Viognier wines can develop subtle notes of roasted almonds, marzipan and warm spices such as ginger or cardamom.

Ageing capacity: Most Viognier wines are intended for enjoyment within two to three years of harvest, when their aromatic freshness is at its peak. However, high-quality examples from Condrieu or top Californian sites can mature for five to ten years, developing remarkable complexity along the way. Viognier should not be aged beyond ten years, however, as it loses its characteristic aromatics.

Food Pairing

Perfect Combinations

Lobster and langoustines with butter sauce: The richness and creaminess of a barrique-aged Viognier harmonises perfectly with the buttery sweetness of crustaceans. The wine's floral notes highlight the delicacy of the lobster meat, while the moderate alcohol and low acidity round out the mouthfeel.

Poultry with apricot glaze or peach chutney: The stone fruits in Viognier are ideally mirrored in fruity accompaniments. Whether chicken, turkey or duck with a sweet-fruity component – Viognier creates flavour bridges and brings harmony to the plate.

Spiced Asian cuisine: The aromatic intensity and slight residual-sweetness impression of Viognier (even when fermented dry) make it an outstanding companion for Asian cuisine. Vietnamese summer rolls, Thai curries with coconut milk or Indian tandoori dishes benefit from the wine's richness without being attacked by excessive acidity.

Soft cheeses and blue cheese: The creamy texture of Viognier pairs excellently with Brie, Camembert or even mild Roquefort. The wine's floral and fruity notes form a beautiful contrast to the salty, spicy intensity of ripe cheeses.