Turkey - Cradle of Wine with Indigenous Treasures

Summary / At a Glance

Few countries can look back on a wine history as long as Turkey's. Anatolia is regarded as one of the very cradles of viticulture – here the domesticated vine was cultivated thousands of years ago. Despite this immense heritage and enormous vineyard areas, Turkey is barely known as a wine country. Yet here lie unique indigenous grape varieties and a committed winemaking scene that battles against difficult conditions and produces wines of real character.

Geography and Climate

Turkey stretches across two continents and offers an extraordinary diversity of climates and terroirs. Quality winegrowing is concentrated in three main regions.

Thrace (Trakya): The European part of Turkey north-west of Istanbul, around the Sea of Marmara. Mediterranean to temperate climate, fertile soils – the most modern and most internationally oriented wine region in the country. Here, alongside indigenous varieties, international grapes such as Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah also dominate.

Aegean (Ege): The west coast around Izmir and Manisa. Warm, Mediterranean climate with sea breeze. The largest growing area by area, traditionally for table grapes, but increasingly for quality wine too. Home of the white Sultaniye grape.

Central and Eastern Anatolia: The Anatolian plateau at 800–1,200 metres elevation with a strongly continental climate – hot summers, icy winters, a large day-night swing. Here lie the most spectacular terroirs: Cappadocia with its volcanic tuff soils (home of the white Emir grape) and the region around Elazığ/Diyarbakır in the east, where the red treasures Öküzgözü and Boğazkere thrive.

The continental high sites of Anatolia provide the necessary freshness and acidity, while the intense sun guarantees fully ripe grapes.

Grape Varieties

Öküzgözü

The most important red quality variety in Turkey, above all from the Elazığ region in Eastern Anatolia. The name means "ox eye" – a reference to the large, dark berries. Öküzgözü yields fruity, juicy reds with vibrant acidity, soft tannins, and aromas of red cherry and berries. It is often seen as the "softer, more charming" partner of Boğazkere.

Boğazkere

The powerful counterpart, above all from the Diyarbakır region. The name means something like "throat scraper" – a reference to the marked, firm tannins. Boğazkere yields dark, structured, tannin-rich, age-worthy reds with aromas of dark fruit, spice, and leather. It is often compared to Tannat or Nebbiolo.

The classic Turkish blend Öküzgözü-Boğazkere unites both – the fruit and acidity of one, the structure and tannin of the other – into a balanced whole, comparable to the Bordeaux principle of Merlot and Cabernet.

Kalecik Karası

An elegant red variety from Central Anatolia (near Ankara). It yields medium-bodied, fruity reds with soft tannins, often compared to Pinot Noir. Almost extinct, it was deliberately revived from the 1970s onwards.

Narince

The most important white quality variety, from the Tokat region. Narince ("the delicate one") yields fresh to full-bodied whites with citrus and stone-fruit notes, well suited to both stainless-steel and barrique ageing.

Emir

The white variety of Cappadocia, grown on volcanic tuff soils. It delivers fresh, mineral, acid-driven whites – an ideal base for sparkling wine as well.

Sultaniye

Widespread above all in the Aegean, primarily as a seedless table and raisin grape, but also for simple, fresh whites.

Wine Styles

Indigenous reds: The centrepiece – single-varietal Öküzgözü and Boğazkere or their classic blend. Full of character, distinctive, from fruity-juicy to powerful and tannin-rich.

International blends: Especially in Thrace, modern, barrique-aged wines are made from Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah – often blended with native varieties.

White wines: Fresh, modern wines from Narince and Emir, increasingly ambitiously aged.

Sparkling wine: The high acidity of the Emir grape from Cappadocia is superbly suited to sparkling wine – a small, up-and-coming segment.

Top Wineries in Turkey

Kavaklıdere

• Speciality: Broad range, indigenous varieties ("Côtes d'Avanos", "Ancyra")
• Note: Oldest still-active winery in Turkey (founded 1929)
• A pioneer and market leader that has contributed decisively to preserving native grape varieties.

Doluca

• Speciality: Premium line "Karma" (indigenous-international), broad palette
• Note: One of the oldest and largest wineries, based in Thrace
• A cornerstone of Turkish winegrowing since 1926, modern and export-oriented.

Kayra

• Speciality: Single-varietal Öküzgözü and Boğazkere, "Buzbağ Reserve"
• Note: Modernised with international oenological know-how
• Stands for the qualitative awakening of the Turkish wine scene and works closely with Eastern Anatolian grapes.

Vinkara

• Speciality: Kalecik Karası, also as sparkling wine ("Yaşasın")
• Note: Specialist in the elegant Central Anatolian variety
• Has established Kalecik Karası as a distinctive calling card.

Corvus

• Speciality: Boutique wines from the island of Bozcaada (Aegean)
• Note: Founded by the architect Reşit Soley, cult status
• An ambitious island winery that trims old and new varieties uncompromisingly for quality.

Urla Winery

• Speciality: Revival of almost extinct indigenous varieties
• Note: Located near Izmir, research on old Anatolian vines
• A modern flagship estate that combines wine tourism with varietal diversity.

Sub-Regions

• Thrace (Trakya): The most modern region near Istanbul, international style and indigenous varieties, plenty of wine tourism.
• Aegean (Ege): The largest growing area around Izmir/Manisa, Mediterranean, from table grape to quality wine. Including the islands of Bozcaada and Gökçeada.
• Central Anatolia / Cappadocia: Volcanic plateau, home to Emir and Kalecik Karası, spectacular landscape.
• Eastern Anatolia (Elazığ, Diyarbakır): Origin of Öküzgözü and Boğazkere – the most valuable red terroirs.

Wine History

Turkey – especially Anatolia and the Caucasus region – is regarded as one of the birthplaces of viticulture. Finds document the use of cultivated vines several thousand years ago; the Hittites and other early civilisations prized wine as both a sacred and an everyday drink. Over millennia, wine culture flourished under changing empires.

With the spread of Islam, viticulture receded but survived – often carried by Christian and Jewish communities – through Ottoman times. The modern, secular wine industry emerged with the founding of the Turkish Republic under Atatürk in the 1920s; houses such as Doluca (1926) and Kavaklıdere (1929) laid the foundation.

Turkey has only experienced its qualitative awakening since the 1990s and 2000s: a new generation of estates invested in modern cellar technology, international oenological knowledge, and – decisively – in the revival of indigenous varieties. Today this ambitious scene battles against difficult political conditions yet produces wines of genuine international calibre.

Challenges and the Future

Politics and taxes: High alcohol taxes and strict advertising and sales restrictions weigh heavily on the home market. Many quality estates increasingly turn to export and wine tourism.

Image: Internationally, Turkey is barely present as a wine country. Its unique indigenous varieties are at once the greatest opportunity and a communication challenge – names such as Öküzgözü and Boğazkere first have to be explained.

Preserving varietal diversity: Many old grape varieties are threatened with extinction. Wineries such as Urla do important conservation work.

Climate: The continental high sites offer good conditions, but drought and extreme weather events are increasing.

Future potential: With unmistakable indigenous varieties, ancient terroirs, and a growing quality scene, Turkey has what it takes – much like Greece – to make a name for itself as a source of unique, characterful wines.

My Personal Recommendation

For me, Turkey is one of the last real adventures in the world of wine. Varieties that hardly anyone knows, a history reaching back to the very beginnings of wine, and wines that taste like nothing else – that is pure joy of discovery.

My favourite winery: Kayra and its single-varietal Eastern Anatolians. A well-made Boğazkere is an uncompromising, tannin-strong wine with depth – anyone who loves Tannat, Nebbiolo, or tannin monsters will be happy here.

Value tip: Reach for the classic blend Öküzgözü-Boğazkere (around €12–16, in well-stocked shops or online). It shows the best of both worlds – fruit and juiciness meet structure and spice – and is the ideal introduction to Turkish wine.

Food pairing: Turkish red wine loves Turkish cuisine. My match: lamb kebab, köfte, or braised lamb (kuzu tandır). The acidity of Öküzgözü cuts through fatty grilled meat, the tannins of Boğazkere embrace spicy flavours. A fresh Narince pairs superbly with mezze and grilled vegetables.

Tasting experience: Cappadocia is a dream: taste a mineral Emir white amid the surreal tuff landscape with its cave cellars. The Aegean island of Bozcaada, with the Corvus winery, is also a rewarding destination.

Best time to visit: September/October during harvest – mild weather, full wineries, and spectacular light in Cappadocia.

Insider tip: Remember the two names Öküzgözü (soft, fruity) and Boğazkere (powerful, tannin-rich). Anyone who can tell these two apart holds the key to Turkish red wine in hand – and a talking point for any wine gathering.

If you find Greek, Georgian, or Lebanese wines exciting, Turkey is your next great adventure. Here you can taste the cradle of wine.