Santorini - Volcanic Wines from the Aegean

Summary / At a Glance

Santorini is one of the most extraordinary wine regions in the world. The crescent-shaped volcanic island in the Aegean has been producing wine on unique terroir for over 3,000 years: soils of volcanic ash, extreme aridity and ungrafted vines, some of which are over 500 years old. The traditional basket-training method (kouloura) protects the grapes from the powerful Meltemi wind and concentrates the aromas into world-class mineral, saline white wines.

Quick Facts:

Location: Cycladic island in the southern Aegean, Greece
Size: 1,200 hectares of vineyards (historically up to 4,000 ha)
Climate: Mediterranean, extremely dry (313 mm rainfall/year), strong winds
Main grape varieties: Assyrtiko (85%), Athiri, Aidani
Wine styles: Mineral, bone-dry whites, sweet Vinsanto dessert wines
Specialty: Ungrafted, phylloxera-free vines thanks to volcanic soils

Geography and Climate

Santorini is the result of one of the greatest volcanic eruptions in human history (around 1600 BC). The crescent-shaped island encloses a flooded caldera and consists of layers of volcanic ash, pumice and basalt.

The vineyards lie mainly in the centre of the island, between the villages of Pyrgos, Megalochori and Akrotiri, at elevations between 50 and 350 metres. The soils are extremely permeable, nutrient-poor and volcanic – ideal conditions for quality winemaking.

The climate is challenging: with only 313 mm of rainfall per year (sometimes as little as 100 mm), Santorini is one of Europe's driest wine regions. The afternoon Meltemi wind reaches speeds of up to 80 km/h and would destroy unprotected vines. The salvation comes at night: morning fog condenses on the vines and supplies them with vital moisture.

Grape Varieties

Assyrtiko

With 85% of the vineyard area, Assyrtiko is the undisputed queen of Santorini. This indigenous Greek variety develops its characteristic minerality and razor-sharp acidity on the volcanic soils. Typical aromas include citrus fruits, saline notes, smoked flint and an intensely bone-dry style. The finest Assyrtikos can age for decades.

Athiri & Aidani

These two white varieties are often used as companions to Assyrtiko. Athiri contributes floral notes and roundness, while Aidani adds aromatic intensity and sweetness – particularly important for the legendary Vinsanto dessert wine.

Wine Styles

Dry Assyrtiko: The classic style of Santorini – bone-dry, mineral, with citrus aromas, flint and saline notes. The acidity is vibrant, the texture almost oily. Top examples are often aged in old oak barrels or amphoras.

Nykteri: A traditional white wine harvested at night (hence the name) and aged in barrels. Fuller and riper than classic Assyrtiko, with aromas of ripe citrus, honey and nuts.

Vinsanto: A sweet dessert wine from sun-dried grapes (Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani). The grapes dry for 12–14 days in the sun, are pressed and then aged for at least 3 years (often 10+ years) in oak barrels. The result: amber-coloured nectar with aromas of dried figs, raisins, caramel and orange peel.

Top Wineries on Santorini

Estate Argyros

Address: Episkopi Gonia, 84700 Santorini
Website: estate-argyros.com
Specialty: Assyrtiko from ungrafted vines up to 200 years old
Awards: Top producer in Greece, international recognition
Founded in 1903, today with 130 hectares one of Santorini's largest estates. The Assyrtikos are textbook examples of minerality; the Vinsantos are legendary.

Domaine Sigalas

Address: Oia, 84702 Santorini
Website: sigalas-wine.com
Specialty: Organic viticulture, single-vineyard Assyrtikos
Awards: Top scores in wine guides, exports to over 25 countries
Paris Sigalas is considered a pioneer of modern winemaking on Santorini. His wines combine tradition with precision.

Santo Wines

Address: Pyrgos, 84700 Santorini
Website: santowines.gr
Specialty: Cooperative with a spectacular caldera terrace
Note: Largest producer on the island, over 1,200 members
The modern winery sits above the caldera – the sunset tastings are legendary. Good value for money.

Gaia Wines

Address: Exo Gonia, 84700 Santorini
Website: gaia-wines.gr
Specialty: Thalassitis Assyrtiko ("from the sea"), Wild Ferment lines
Awards: Multiple awards as best Greek white wine
Two winemakers from Athens revolutionised Santorini's wine scene from 1994. Their wines are modern, clear and precise.

Venetsanos Winery

Address: Megalochori, 84700 Santorini
Website: venetsanoswinery.com
Specialty: Historic winery from 1947, architecturally spectacular
Note: Greece's first winery with gravity-based wine production

Canava Roussos

Address: Mesa Gonia, 84700 Santorini
Website: canava-roussos.gr
Specialty: Traditional underground canava (wine cellar)
Note: Family winery since 1836, authentic insights into traditional winemaking

Sub-regions

Santorini is small, but the vineyards show distinct characteristics:

Pyrgos: The highest village with cooler sites, producing particularly fresh, acidity-driven Assyrtikos
Megalochori: Centre of traditional winemaking, many historic canavas
Akrotiri: South-western peninsula with wind-sheltered sites
Oia/Fira: Northern areas, partly on steep caldera slopes

Wine History

Winemaking on Santorini is over 3,000 years old – archaeological finds document wine production in the Minoan era. After the catastrophic volcanic eruption around 1600 BC, viticulture was rebuilt and flourished in antiquity.

A revolution came with Venetian rule (13th–17th centuries): the Venetians exported Santorini wines across Europe; the sweet Vinsanto was especially popular. The name "Vinsanto" is a combination of "Vino di Santorini" and calls to mind the Italian Vin Santo.

In the 19th century Santorini experienced its golden age – the vineyards reached 4,000 hectares. Then came a double blow: phylloxera devastated European vineyards from 1870 onwards (Santorini was spared!), but tourism and more urban lifestyles caused the vineyard area to shrink to today's 1,200 hectares.

The renaissance began in the 1990s, when wineries such as Gaia and Sigalas gained international recognition. Today Santorini is a premium wine region with a protected designation of origin (PDO Santorini since 1971).

Challenges and Future

Climate change and water shortage: Santorini is already extremely dry – further warming could push the limits of what is possible. Innovative irrigation techniques (drip irrigation from desalinated seawater) are being tested, but remain controversial.

Tourism vs. viticulture: The island receives over 2 million tourists a year. Vineyards are being converted into hotels, and young Santorinians are leaving. The economic pressure is enormous.

Preserving old vines: The ungrafted, phylloxera-free vines are a treasure – but their cultivation is extremely labour-intensive. The basket-training method requires hand labour; mechanical harvesting is impossible. Many old vineyards are being abandoned.

Sustainability: More and more wineries are adopting organic farming. The volcanic soils and dry conditions make this easier – fungal diseases are rare.

Future potential: Santorini wines are gaining prestige internationally. A UNESCO candidacy for the traditional basket-training method could strengthen the protection of wine culture.

My Personal Recommendation

Santorini is magical – and that applies not only to the sunsets. The wine region is unique in the world.

My favourite winery: Domaine Sigalas blew me away. Paris Sigalas' Assyrtiko "Aa" (from a single 70-year-old parcel) is a masterpiece – mineral as licked flint, salty sea spray, vibrant citrus freshness. Plus a texture that is almost oily. This wine tells the story of the island in every sip.

Tasting with a view: Santo Wines is touristy, yes – but the sunset tasting on the caldera terrace is unforgettable. My tip: arrive 30 minutes before sunset, secure a spot at the front, try the Nykteri and the 10-year Vinsanto. As the sun dips into the sea, you will understand why the ancient Greeks worshipped gods here.

Hidden gem: Canava Roussos in Mesa Gonia is authentic Santorini. A family winery since 1836, the cellar is built into volcanic caves – as cool as a refrigerator. Kostas Roussos personally guides you through the old canava, shows you the basket-training and explains how his grandfather used to transport barrels by donkey. The wines are traditional, honest, affordable.

Wine souvenir: The Vinsanto by Estate Argyros (10 years, 500 ml bottle) is the perfect souvenir. It keeps forever, costs around €35–40 and tastes like Santorini in concentrated form: dried figs, raisins, honey, a hint of volcanic ash. Pairs beautifully with Greek baklava or simply on its own as a meditation.

Best time to visit: September/October during the harvest. The island is quieter after high summer, temperatures are pleasant (25–28°C), and you can watch the hand-picking. Many wineries open their old vineyards to visitors – the basket-shaped vines among black lava stones are as photogenic as anything you have seen.

Insider tip: Book a Wine Cycling Tour with Santorini Wine Adventure. You cycle through the vineyards on e-bikes (the island is hillier than expected!), visit 3–4 small wineries off the tourist trail and learn about basket-training first-hand. My guide Nikos was a winemaker himself and showed me how to sit inside a kouloura basket – uncomfortable, but effective!

Important: Santorini is expensive. The wines cost more than on the mainland – but they are worth it. Buy directly from the winemaker, support the local families who are holding on to this extreme viticulture against all odds.