Attica - Retsina Homeland and Athens' Wine Rebirth

Summary / At a Glance

Attica is the historic wine region surrounding Athens and one of the oldest wine-growing areas in the world. For millennia, it was the center of ancient wine culture; later, it became known primarily for Retsina – the pine-resin-flavored white wine that accounted for 90% of production. But since the 2000s, Attica has been experiencing a spectacular renaissance: young winemakers are rediscovering the indigenous grape variety Savatiano, vinifying it without resin into modern, dry white wines, and positioning the region as an urban wine hub with wine tourism at Athens' doorstep.

Quick Facts:

• Location: Central Greece, surrounding Athens
• Size: Approx. 8,000 hectares of vineyard area
• Climate: Hot, dry Mediterranean climate
• Main Grape Variety: Savatiano (90% of vineyard area, white)
• Wine Styles: Retsina, dry Savatiano white wines, rosé
• Highlight: Birthplace of Retsina, ancient winemaking tradition

Geography and Climate

Attica encompasses the entire region around the Greek capital Athens, from the shores of the Saronic Gulf to the mountainous hinterland. The main wine-growing areas lie northwest of Athens (Mesogeia plain), in the hills around Marathon, and on the nearby island of Euboea.

The climate is typically Mediterranean: hot, dry summers with little rainfall and mild winters. The proximity to the sea brings cooling breezes that provide freshness in the wines. The soils are predominantly calcareous and stony – ideal for the drought-resistant Savatiano vine.

The Mesogeia plain east of Athens is the heartland of the modern wine renaissance. Here, between highways and olive groves, the region's most innovative wines are being created.

Grape Varieties

Savatiano

The undisputed queen of Attica accounts for 90% of the vineyard area. Savatiano is an ancient white grape variety, cultivated since antiquity, that is perfectly adapted to the hot, dry climate. Traditionally, it was used almost exclusively for Retsina, but modern winemakers are revealing the variety's enormous potential for dry white wines:

• Traditional style: Simple, neutral, base for Retsina
• Modern style: Fresh citrus aromas, herbal notes, mineral acidity, sometimes barrique-aged for added complexity
• Character: Medium body, vibrant acidity, Mediterranean herbs

The best Savatiano wines come from old bush vines at higher elevations with cooler microclimates.

Other Grape Varieties

Young winemakers are increasingly experimenting with other indigenous varieties:

• Roditis: Fresh, elegant white wines
• Malagousia: Aromatic white wines with floral notes
• Assyrtiko: Imported from Santorini, delivers mineral premium wines
• Agiorgitiko: Red grape variety for fruity reds and rosés

International varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah are also grown, mostly as blending partners.

Wine Styles

Retsina (with Pine Resin)

The traditional flagship of Attica: white wine to which pine resin is added during fermentation. The origin lies in antiquity, when resin was used to seal amphorae and inadvertently flavored the wine.

Traditional Retsina: Simple, resinous, neutral – mass product for tourists and tavernas

Modern Retsina: Less resin, more fruit, elegant herbal notes, some organic or natural. New variations include:

• Rosé Retsina: Vinified from red grapes
• Sparkling Retsina: Fizzy version with fine perlage
• Vintage Retsina: From old vines, age-worthy
• Natural Retsina: Minimal intervention, spontaneous fermentation

The best Retsinas are refreshing, complex, and pair perfectly with Greek cuisine (feta, olives, grilled fish).

Dry Savatiano White Wines (without Resin)

The modern renaissance of Attica: Savatiano vinified without resin, often with lees aging, barrique treatment, or spontaneous fermentation. The result is fresh, characterful white wines with:

• Citrus fruits (lemon, grapefruit)
• Mediterranean herbs (thyme, sage)
• Mineral notes
• Crisp acidity

These wines show that Savatiano is capable of far more than just being a Retsina base.

Rosé and Red Wines

A small but growing category from Agiorgitiko and international varieties. Light, fruity, ideal for hot summer days.

Top Wineries in Attica

Mylonas Winery

• Address: Keratea, Mesogeia
• Website: mylonaswines.gr
• Specialty: Modern Savatiano wines, nature-oriented viticulture
• Awards: Multiple awards for innovative Retsina
• Pioneer of the Savatiano renaissance, urban winery at Athens' doorstep

Papagiannakos Winery

• Address: Markopoulo, Mesogeia
• Website: papagiannakos-wines.gr
• Specialty: Old Savatiano vines, barrique-aged
• Highlight: 100% focus on Savatiano, various terroirs
• Third-generation family winery, trailblazer of the quality movement

Markou Vineyards

• Address: Koropi, Mesogeia
• Website: markouvineyard.gr
• Specialty: Biodynamic viticulture, natural wines
• Awards: Natural Wine Award Winner
• Young, innovative winemakers with a radical quality philosophy

Domaine Hatzimichalis

• Address: Atalanti, north of Athens
• Website: hatzimichaliswines.gr
• Specialty: Broad range, international and indigenous varieties
• Highlight: Large estate with state-of-the-art technology
• One of central Greece's largest quality wineries

Kourtakis Winery

• Address: Athens/Corinth
• Website: kourtakis-wines.gr
• Specialty: Greece's largest Retsina producer
• Highlight: Traditional Retsina in mass production, but also premium lines
• Commercial winery with historic significance

Cavino Winery

• Address: Aigio, Gulf of Corinth
• Website: cavino.gr
• Specialty: Retsina, accessible everyday wines
• Highlight: Export-oriented, also organic Retsina
• Large producer with a broad portfolio

Sub-regions

Mesogeia

The most important sub-region east of Athens. Flat to hilly landscape with old Savatiano vines. This is where the innovative boutique wineries are concentrated (Mylonas, Papagiannakos, Markou).

Marathon

North of Athens, known for higher elevations and a cooler microclimate. Produces fresher, more elegant Savatiano wines.

Euboea (Evia)

The nearby island is technically part of the Attica wine region and an important Retsina producer.

Atalanti

Northwest of Athens, transitioning to central Greece. Larger wineries with diversified ranges.

Winemaking History

Attica is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Wine was already being cultivated here during the Minoan and Mycenaean periods (2000-1100 BC). In classical antiquity, Attic wine was prized throughout the Mediterranean – amphorae bearing the seal of Athens have been found from Spain to the Black Sea.

The use of pine resin to seal amphorae shaped the taste of ancient wine – the birth of Retsina. What was originally a practical side effect became a culinary tradition.

In the Middle Ages and under Ottoman rule, viticulture shrank but experienced a revival in the 19th century after Greek independence. Attica became the center of mass-produced Retsina – simple, cheap, for everyday consumption.

The quality shift began in the 1990s when wineries like Papagiannakos started vinifying Savatiano without resin. But the true renaissance started in the 2010s, when young, educated winemakers returned to family estates, invested in modern cellar technology, and redefined Savatiano as a terroir grape.

Today, Attica is a region in transition: Retsina remains important (especially for export and tourism), but the future lies in dry, characterful white wines that connect urban Athens with its ancient wine culture.

Challenges and Future

Urbanization: Athens' expansion threatens vineyards. Many old vineyard areas have been turned into building land. Wineries are betting on wine tourism to survive economically and preserve the wine culture.

Climate change: Increasing heat and drought require adaptations. Old, deep-rooted Savatiano bush vines cope better than young plantings. Higher elevations and cooler microclimates are gaining importance.

Image transformation: Retsina has an image problem as "cheap tourist wine." Modern winemakers are working on premium Retsina with less resin, more terroir, better quality. At the same time, they are positioning resin-free Savatiano as an independent category.

Wine tourism: Proximity to Athens is a huge advantage. More and more wineries are opening stylish tasting rooms, organizing vineyard dinners, and collaborating with Athenian restaurants. "Urban winemaking" is becoming a trend.

Sustainability: Organic and biodynamic viticulture is growing, especially among young winemakers. The dry climate makes organic certification easier.

International recognition: Greek wines (and Savatiano specifically) are still little known internationally. The challenge is to break out of the niche and conquer global markets.

My Personal Recommendation

Attica is perhaps the most exciting urban wine region in Europe – an ancient wine culture in modern dress!

My favorite winery: Markou Vineyards in Koropi blew me away. The young generation vinifies biodynamically, wild-fermented, with minimal sulfur – radically nature-oriented. The Natural Savatiano is anything but neutral: wild, vibrant, with aromas of citrus peel, herbs, hay, and a raw, authentic texture. Not for everyone, but exactly my style! Tastings take place in a minimalist tasting room overlooking the vineyards – with Athens' skyline in the background.

Retsina recommendation: I long found Retsina undrinkable – until I tried the modern Retsina from Mylonas. Subtly resinated Savatiano, fresh, with citrus notes and a fine herbal spice. Nothing like the aggressively resinous stuff from tourist tavernas! I pair it with grilled octopus, feta salad, or simply olives – perfect for balmy summer evenings.

Premium white wine: The Savatiano Reserve from Papagiannakos (barrique-aged) is world-class. Full-bodied, with aromas of ripe lemons, honey, roasted almonds, and a creamy texture. This is not a simple summer wine but a serious white with aging potential. Perfect with grilled fish, roast chicken, or creamy risottos.

Wine tourism tip: Combine an Athens city break with a winery excursion! The Mesogeia plain is just 30 minutes from central Athens. My perfect day: Morning at the Acropolis, midday tasting at Papagiannakos (reservations recommended!), afternoon stroll through the vineyards, evening at an Athenian wine bar enjoying modern Greek wines. Recommendation: Heteroclito Wine Bar in Monastiraki – fantastic selection of Greek natural wines!

Hidden gem: The Athens Wine Festival in summer (usually July/August) takes place in the Zappeion Gardens. Dozens of Greek wineries (including Attica producers) present their wines here. A perfect opportunity to discover Savatiano, Retsina, and other Greek wines – in a relaxed atmosphere under plane trees, with live music and street food.

Best time to visit: Spring (April-May) or autumn (September-October). In summer, it gets extremely hot, but that is exactly when an ice-cold Retsina fits perfectly! Harvest usually takes place in late August/early September.

Attica shows that urban wine regions have a future – when tradition meets innovation and young winemakers have the courage to reinterpret old grape varieties!