Eiswein (Ice Wine)

What is Eiswein?

Eiswein (Ice Wine) is one of the rarest and most extraordinary wine styles in the world. It is a noble sweet Praedikat wine made from frozen grapes harvested at temperatures of at least -7°C. The freezing water remains as ice in the press, while highly concentrated, sugar-rich must flows out.

Quality Criteria and Legal Requirements

Minimum Must Weight (in °Oechsle):

Eiswein must meet the quality requirements of a Beerenauslese:

• Riesling: 110-128°Oe (depending on the growing region)
• Mueller-Thurgau, Silvaner: 120-128°Oe
• Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir): 128°Oe

Strict Conditions:

• Temperature: Grapes must be frozen at min. -7°C (preferably -8°C)
• Harvest time: Usually between December and February, often at night or in early morning hours
• Immediate pressing: Grapes must be pressed while frozen (hence often still in the dark)
• No enrichment: No sugar addition permitted
• No Botrytis: Unlike Beerenauslese, Eiswein should have no noble rot -- the aromas should remain fresh and pure

The Elaborate Production Process

1. Risky Late Harvest

After the normal harvest in autumn, the winemaker deliberately leaves selected grapes hanging on the vine -- often until December, January, or even February. This carries enormous risks:

• Bird damage: Birds eat the sweet grapes
• Rot: Rain and humidity can destroy the grapes
• Total loss: If frost fails to arrive, no Eiswein can be produced at all

2. The Eiswein Harvest

As soon as the temperature drops below -7°C (usually at night), harvesting begins immediately:

• Speed: The grapes must remain frozen (hence often harvested at night)
• Hand labor: Only hand harvesting is possible; machine harvesting would destroy the frozen berries
• Challenge: Working in freezing cold, often with headlamps in the dark

3. Pressing

The frozen grapes are pressed immediately in their frozen state:

• The water remains as ice crystals
• Only the highly concentrated sugar juice flows out
• The yield is extremely low: only 10-15% of the original volume (instead of 70-80% for normal wine)
• Pressing takes hours, as the frozen must emerges only slowly

Flavor Profile

Eiswein is distinguished by extreme concentration and brilliant freshness:

Typical Aromas (especially in Riesling Eiswein):

• Intense fruit: Apricot, peach, ripe pineapple, mango
• Citrus: Lime, lemon, kumquat -- more freshness than Beerenauslese
• Honey: Acacia honey, but less intense than Trockenbeerenauslese
• Tropical notes: Passion fruit, lychee, ripe banana
• Floral: Jasmine, orange blossom
• Minerality: Significantly more pronounced than in Botrytis wines

Flavor Character:

• Sweetness: 150-250 g/l residual sugar (extremely sweet)
• Acidity: Very high (8-12 g/l), creating perfect balance with the sweetness
• Alcohol: Low (usually 7-9% vol.), as not all sugar is fermented
• Texture: Syrupy, oily, concentrated -- but never heavy thanks to the acidity

The difference from Beerenauslese: Eiswein is fresher, clearer, and more fruit-forward, as no Botrytis (noble rot) is present. Beerenauslese is more complex but also more oxidative and less fruity.

Best Grape Varieties for Eiswein

1. Riesling (the Classic)

• High natural acidity perfectly balances the sweetness
• Brilliant fruit notes and minerality
• Best examples: Mosel, Rheingau, Pfalz

2. Vidal Blanc (Canada)

• Hybrid grape variety with high frost resistance
• Dominates Canadian ice wine production
• Aromas of peach, apricot, honey

3. Gewuerztraminer

• Exotic, spicy ice wines with lychee and rose aromas
• Very aromatic, less acid-driven

4. Scheurebe

• Intense blackcurrant and redcurrant aromas
• Somewhat rustic but highly characterful

5. Gruener Veltliner (Austria)

• Peppery notes, green fruit, high acidity

Eiswein Worldwide

Germany

The homeland of Eiswein -- the method was first accidentally discovered here in 1830 (after an early frost in Franconia). Best regions:

• Mosel: Delicate, acid-driven Rieslings
• Rheingau: Powerful, mineral ice wines
• Pfalz: Fruity-elegant styles

Canada

World's largest producer of ice wine (called "Icewine" there):

• Niagara Peninsula (Ontario): Over 90% of Canadian production
• Okanagan Valley (British Columbia): High-quality boutique ice wines
• Mainly from Vidal Blanc, but also Riesling and Cabernet Franc

Austria

High-quality ice wines, especially from:

• Burgenland: Sweet, concentrated ice wines
• Lower Austria: Gruener Veltliner Eiswein

Aging Potential

Eiswein is extremely age-worthy thanks to its enormous acidity and high sugar levels:

• Drinking window: Already accessible after 2-3 years
• Optimum: 10-20 years of bottle age
• Maximum aging potential: 30-50+ years under perfect conditions

During aging, Eiswein develops:

• Caramel and honey notes
• Nutty aromas (hazelnut, almond)
• Candied fruits and dried fruit
• Petrol notes in Riesling (after 15+ years)
• Greater complexity and harmony

Food Pairing

Eiswein as a dessert wine or standalone indulgence:

Perfect Combinations:

• Foie gras: The absolute classic! The acidity cuts through the richness.
• Blue cheese: Roquefort, Stilton, Gorgonzola -- the sweetness tempers the saltiness.
• Fruity desserts: Apricot tart, fruit sorbets, creme brulee
• Dark chocolate: 70-80% cocoa -- the bitterness contrasts perfectly with the sweetness
• Pates and terrines: Classic French pairing

Serving Recommendations:

• Temperature: 6-8°C (well chilled so the sweetness doesn't overwhelm)
• Glass: Small dessert wine glass (50-75 ml portions)
• Enjoy solo: Eiswein often suffices as a standalone pleasure after dinner

Price and Availability

Eiswein is rare and expensive because production is extremely risky and labor-intensive:

• Entry-level Eiswein: 40-80 EUR (0.375 l)
• High-quality German Eiswein: 80-200 EUR (0.375 l)
• Top Eiswein from a great vintage: 200-500+ EUR (0.375 l)
• Canadian Icewines: 50-150 EUR (0.375 l), usually somewhat less expensive than German

Important: Eiswein is almost always bottled in 0.375-liter bottles (half bottles), as quantities are small and only small portions are consumed per person.

Climate Change and the Future of Eiswein

Climate change poses the greatest threat to Eiswein. Increasingly mild winters mean that the necessary -7°C is reached less frequently:

• In Germany, Eiswein vintages are failing completely more and more often
• In 2019 and 2020, some regions produced no Eiswein at all
• Canada still benefits from more stable winter temperatures

This makes Eiswein an even rarer rarity -- and could ultimately mean this wine style disappears or is only produced in particularly cold regions.

Notable Eiswein Producers

Germany:

• Robert Weil (Rheingau): Legendary Riesling ice wines
• Egon Mueller (Mosel): Extremely rare and expensive ice wines
• Doennhoff (Nahe): Precise, mineral ice wines
• Weingut Keller (Rheinhessen): Powerful ice wines from top sites

Canada:

• Inniskillin: Pioneer of Canadian Icewine
• Peller Estates: World's largest Icewine producer
• Jackson-Triggs: High-quality, accessible Icewines

Austria:

• Kracher (Burgenland): Sweet wine specialist with ice wines
• Alois Kracher: Posthumously continued estate with legendary sweet wines